Coastal, Catalan, and Incredibly Cool: It’s Costa Brava!

There’s something magical about the seaside. You sleep at night with the window open just enough to bring in the roll and crash of breakers on the shore, and wake to hot coffee and the salty breeze ruffling your hair. In the afternoon, you might relax on the porch and watch gulls diving in the surf or take a long walk down a seemingly endless stretch of smooth sand and azure waves.

Maybe that’s why guests find our Costa Brava vacation so alluring. “We stay boutique beach hotels for five out of six nights on this vacation,” says VBT trip leader Oriol Molinos of the Spain: Girona & Costa Brava Guided Tour. “They all have large rooms and sea views. But the day when we arrive at our last hotel is a really special moment. We check in and see the Mediterranean Sea right in front of us—knowing we have three whole nights to enjoy it. Plus, the seafood is a tremendous highlight!” As you explore Spain’s wild northwest coast with your Spanish trip leaders, you’ll do more than just cycle and swim—you’ll meet the local people, explore the landscape, and discover unique traditions that make Catalonia one of Spain’s most beautiful gems.

Low-Traffic Bike Routes Designed by the Pros

Costa Brava is known as Spain’s wild coast—and finding the perfect cycling routes through this rugged landscape took some ingenuity, and deep insider knowledge. That’s where VBT’s Trip Designer, Andrea Chlebova comes in. “My brother used to be a professional cyclist, and I lived with him in Costa Brava while he was training,” says Andrea. “Together, we biked for miles and miles—sometimes on little hidden byways even the locals don’t use. It was great, because I discovered scenic cycling routes with very little traffic—and those are many of the rides on in this adventure.” With 80% of the rides offering low-traffic cycling, this is a great choice for anyone who wants to get away from the hustle-bustle.

While Spain’s Costa Brava is well-known as a cycling destination for the pros, you don’t have to be an avid biker to enjoy this adventure. “The rides are inland, and the terrain is relatively flat,” says Oriol. “The landscape is lush and green—especially as we go through the rice paddy fields and apple orchards that line the Ter river. With views of the Catalan Pyrenees mountains in the background, medieval villages cropping up along the route, and the Mediterranean Sea on the horizon, the scenery is truly spectacular.” This is the perfect landscape for cyclists of any skill level or experience—with flat, easy-going routes complemented by optional challenging routes that will put anyone’s pedal power to the test. And with available E-bikes, even the tougher climbs are well within reach. “We often joke that E-bikes are the great equalizer,” says Oriol. “And we’ve added many optional challenging routes, so if people want to ride in the afternoon after everyone else is back at the hotel, they can really put themselves to the test on the hills.” As you cycle through serene fields of yellow, flowering canola, you might be dreaming of tackling the rugged coastal climbs for which Catalonia is famous—or perhaps returning to your charming beach hotel to relax and wriggle your toes in Mediterranean waters. The choice is yours!

A Bounty of Bike Shops and Fashionable Boutiques

As a famous cycling destination, the medieval city of Girona boasts more than ancient cobblestone streets, a splendid cathedral, and charming bridges over the Onyar river—it’s also a great place to browse high-end bike shops for exceptional gear, clothing, and great ideas. VBT trip leader Oriol Molinos has spent most of his life in Girona, and he remembers how this small medieval town launched itself into cycling super-stardom. “Lance Armstrong lived in Girona for seven years while he was competing in Tour de France,” recalls Oriol. “At the time, he was getting lots of attention—and he really opened the door for other cyclists to discover the incredible bike routes in the area. As a result, lots of top-notch bike shops sprang up. It’s the ultimate place to shop for great gear.” For those interested in a different kind of shopping, Girona also has a whole range of trendy boutiques and haute couture shops. “I’m into fashion myself, and I love shopping in Girona because here you get a lot of individual attention,” observes Andrea. “You’ll find a wealth of unique, artisanal pieces—like espadrilles made by hand in Mallorca. It’s so much fun to go into one of these shops where they’ll dress you up, and you come out looking like a fashion model.” Of course, with so many wonderful things to see, one is bound to get a tad peckish. A delightful array of artisanal coffee shops, and healthy restaurants serving farm-to-table cuisine, are always on hand to satisfy even the most discerning palate.

Costa Brava’s Most Brilliant Gem: The Local People

In the countryside outside of Girona, you’ll experience the authentic Catalonia. Coasting through a dense cork tree forest, you emerge into a landscape of farms and vineyards. Here, you’ll stop by an ancient spring-fed pool where an authentic Catalan picnic is waiting for you. Prepared over an open wood fire, your host is Josep, a retired local villager who loves to cook seasonal Catalan specialties like calçots with romesco sauce, green asparagus, and local mushrooms, depending on the season. After enjoying a delightful spread with locally-produced sausages and sweet coca bread for dessert, Josep brings out his crowing glory—the ratafia, a homemade liquor made from fermented wildflowers. “Making the ratafia is a strong Catalan tradition,” explains Oriol. “In June, we gather wildflowers and herbs and soak them in an anise-flavored liquor. We cork the bottle and leave it outside, exposed to the elements, where the difference in temperature macerates the flowers so they release their aroma. At our annual Christmas gathering, all the brothers in my family bring their own versions—and we compete to see which brother has brewed the best ratafia of the year!” As you sip this relaxing beverage, you may choose to dip your toes in to the healing (but pungent!) waters of the adjacent sulfur spring—which, according to ancient Catalan tradition, has restorative healing properties.

As you ride through the apple orchards of the Alt Empordà region, a stop for lunch at a local farmhouse brings you the magic of Catalan daily life. “Our friends, Eva and Marc live in a traditional Spanish farmhouse that they’ve converted into a beautiful bed and breakfast,” says Andrea. “They keep a spectacular garden area covered with apple trees and blooming flowers, and we join them for a lunch of arroz a la casola. This is a traditional dish, made with a base of caramelized onions. It’s often served in this part of Spain because the lush landscape along the rivers is perfect for growing rice.” With the wealth of fruit trees that thrive in this region, apples are a big topic of conversation, and your hosts are delighted to offer you tastings of traditional Catalan cider made from apples grown in their orchards. As you relax in the estate’s vibrant gardens with Eva and Marc, they will regale you with tales of local plant-based healing traditions and apple cultivation—and you may be surprised by what they have to say!

As your adventure draws to an end, the best highlight is yet to come. “Costa Brava means rugged coast—so most of our cycling is inland,” explains Andrea. “To give a better view of the incredible cliffs that line the Mediterranean shore, we take a ride on a private boat with a local captain—and you get a spectacular view of the caves and crags that line these shores.” As you cruise along the coast, your local captain entertains you with tales of the sea—including stories of the island where his own grandfather began the tradition of taking family and friends to cook a feast and dance the night away under the stars.

Of course, no Costa Brava vacation could possibly be complete without an exploration of one of its most famous sons. “One of my favorite local people is Quim, an expert on the art of Salvador Dali,” says Andrea. “He gives us wonderful tours of the Dali Museum and Púbol Castle. Everyone enjoys his talk so much because he gives you the unvarnished truth—and when it comes to Salvador Dali, that’s pretty fascinating!” Designed by Salvador Dali himself, the museum is a stunning homage to the imaginative mindscape of the great master. And as you move on to your final stay in the majestic city of Barcelona, you’ll discover the works of the great Catalan architect, Antoni Gaudi, from whom Dali is said to have drawn much inspiration.